Chapter 6.8

Organic Cotton

Pilot project and Partnership Initiative

Pilot project on organic cotton

The aim of the organic cotton pilot project in the South Odisha region is to increase the amount of organic cotton on the world market. Project participants are aiming to achieve this by helping smallholder farmers to convert from conventional to organic cotton farming by providing training courses and suitable seeds. All measures are intended to lead to a sustainable improvement in the economic situation of local smallholders and environmental conditions in the region. In addition to the three Partnership members Fairtrade Germany, Tchibo GmbH, Dibella b. v., participants in the project are the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, the Indian cooperative Chetna and the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA). The project was launched in June 2020 and ends in March 2023.

Since its inception, the pilot project on organic cotton has supported more than 900 smallholder farmers in converting from conventional to organic cotton production. For these smallholders, there were several reasons to grow organic cotton: it brings improvements in soil fertility and their own health, and it assures purchase quantities and support from project partners. In addition to a minimum price, they also guarantee an organic cotton premium and a Fairtrade premium payment. This improves the economic resilience of producers.

It was also important to optimise fibre quality. This was achieved using new seed varieties, which are noteworthy in particular in terms of their quality (grain length) and suitability for the textile industry. Only rainwater was used for irrigation. In addition, those involved in the project were able to prevent any possibility of contamination with genetically modified cotton from cultivation to ginning.

Major challenges arose during the project period: the COVID-19 pandemic, unexpectedly high monsoon rainfall during the first project year and unexpectedly strong price fluctuations in the second project year.

Copyright: Fairtrade – Didier Gentilhomme

Partnership Initiative on Organic Cotton

The Partnership Initiative on Organic Cotton in India was launched in September 2021, based on the findings of the pilot project and increasing global demand for organic cotton. The aim is to help build a fair, environmentally friendly and economically viable supply chain for organic cotton and to facilitate access to organic cotton for member companies. The Partnership Initiative supports 11,500 cotton producers with conversion from conventional to organic cotton farming. To this end, it provides targeted measures geared to awareness raising, capacity development, networking and purchasing.

Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Odisha and Gujarat are the Indian states where measures are being implemented. The Partnership Initiative is supported by the Dutch organisation Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), which has a local office in India.

In 2022, the Partnership Initiative concluded contracts with three Indian cooperatives. Around half of participating member companies reached agreement with the cooperatives on binding purchase quantities and premium payments for the first harvest year. In addition, producers are provided with access to non-genetically-modified organic seeds. To complement the agricultural training and capacity-building programmes for cotton producers already underway, project participants began developing training modules on labour rights. Partnership Initiative members now exchange information in quarterly formats. This also included two webinars on in-conversion cotton. The Partnership Initiative is evaluated annually by independent third parties.

Twelve members of the Textiles Partnership took part in the Partnership Initiative: ALDI Einkauf SE & Co. oHG, ALDI Süd KG, Brands Fashion GmbH, C&A Mode GmbH & Co. KG, Esprit Europe Services GmbH, Formesse GmbH & Co. KG, Global Standard gemeinnützige GmbH (GOTS), HAKRO GmbH, H&M Group, s.Oliver Bernd Freier GmbH & Co. KG, Tchibo GmbH and Fairtrade Deutschland e.V.. The Partnership Initiative will run until the end of August 2025. It is still possible for Partnership members to join the ongoing Partnership Initiative.

In-conversion farmer(s) in India, Copyright: OCA

“2022 marked the start of our work on the ground for the Partnership Initiative Organic Cotton. More than 10,000 farmers in India took the first step to transition from conventional to organic farming with the support from OCA’s Implementing Partners. The Partnership Initiative helps these farmers through sourcing commitments and better prices for in-conversion cotton provided by the participating brand partners, as well as additional funding available for capacity building, seeds and bio-inputs during the demanding first three years of converting to certified organic farming. In turn, thousands of hectares of farmland will be regenerated through organic practices, eliminating the use of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides, building long-term soil health, and increasing on-farm biodiversity for generations to come.

The first cotton from the Partnership Initiative has now entered the supply chains of participating brands and retailers. At the same time, we are reaching the completion of our training curriculum focused specifically on decent working conditions in cotton farming. We are looking forward to integrating this training in our work for the following seasons.

Last but not least, we are also happy to have welcomed more partner brands to the Initiative, with Formesse joining in 2022 and Aldi Nord and Aldi Süd joining at the beginning of 2023.

Stay tuned as 2023 will bring more exciting developments!”

Bart Vollaard, Executive Director, Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA)

Further information

On the PST website you find further information on the pilot project and the Partnership Initiative.

Chapter 6.7

Wastewater management

Chapter 6.9

Man-made fibres